20Mar2023

Eco-friendly alternative for plastic packaging: ‘sea lettuce’

Ulva lactuca, popularly known as ‘sea lettuce’, which is concentrated in the Gulf of Izmir especially at certain times of the year, has become the subject of a scientific research as a sustainable alternative to plastic packaging. The project developed by the Sustainable Development Youth Leaders Training Programme (SÜGEP) Academy aims to use sea lettuce, which causes environmental pollution and odour, as raw material in the packaging sector. Young sustainability leaders trained at the SÜGEP Academy, who are working on obtaining raw materials for packaging based on the intensive use of cellulose contained in sea lettuce in the packaging sector, will start an R&D study with the samples they have collected. A prototype will be created towards the end of the summer as part of an international programme called Young Spokespersons of the Environment.

SÜGEP Academy President Umut Dilsiz said that the young people who received trainings on sustainability both tried to bring solutions to environmental problems from a sustainable perspective and addressed a problem spread throughout Izmir. Stating that the students first receive their education and then carry out field work, Dilsiz disclosed: “The project focuses on the problem of odour in the Gulf of Izmir as a result of climate change, a problem that everyone complains about. The main source of the odour is ulva lactuca, which spreads along the coastline. Although this situation seems to be an environmental problem, our students have determined that ulva lactuca can be a potential biodegradable raw material. With the multi-benefit approach, it is aimed both to clean the algae from the bay and to bring it into the economy as a raw material.”

Eco-friendly alternative for plastic packaging: ‘sea lettuce’

Europe does not want plastic packaging

Umut Dilsiz, reminding the regulation imposing the obligation to use biodegradable raw materials in import goods in line with the 2030 targets of the European Union (EU), made the following statement: “This regulation has emerged as an important barrier to be overcome for our country, which exports more than 50 percent of its exports to the European Union. The packaging preference of our business world for export-oriented goods was plastic. However, Europe does not want plastic and an alternative raw material needs to be produced. This is the focus of our project. Since sea lettuce is a completely natural substance, it also serves the zero waste mission. We are currently working to obtain an alternative raw material to plastic. When this project is finalised, both the environmental problem will be eliminated by cleaning the overpopulated ulva lactuca, which causes odour in the gulf, and the wastes obtained will be brought into the industry. And while doing so, it will not harm the environment at all.”

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20Mar2023

IAF emphasises importance of effective enforcement in due diligence legislation

International Apparel Federation (IAF) participated extensively in the 9th OECD Forum on Due Diligence in the Garment and Footwear Sector held at OECD Conference Centre in Paris in a hybrid format, on February 16-17. The event, which brings together brands, suppliers, NGOs, CSOs, international bodies and government representatives from around the globe, was the first event since the Covid-19 pandemic to be held in-person, and a great opportunity to reconnect with existing colleagues after several years, and force new connections and alliances. IAF, which represents mostly the interests of garment manufacturers and small and medium-sized brands at the event, expressed their support for European corporate sustainability due diligence legislation. Besides, they called for the legislation to be implemented along the lines set by the OECD’s due diligence guidance, and for effective enforcement, so as to create a level playing field.

The legislation aims to foster sustainable and responsible corporate behaviour and to anchor human rights and environmental considerations in companies’ operations and corporate governance. The new rules will ensure that businesses address adverse impacts of their actions, including in their value chains inside and outside Europe.

IAF emphasises importance of effective enforcement in due diligence legislation

“Purchasing practices are fundamental to effective due diligence”

IAF and several of their partners in the global Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative (STTI) emphasized that purchasing practices are fundamental to effective due diligence. STTI, a coalition of 13 associations from 10 garment manufacturing countries supported by the IAF, GIZ Fabric and the Better Buying Institute was represented by Dr. Liang Xiaohui of CNTAC from China; Cem Altan, President of IAF and member of the Board of TCMA from Turkey; Faruque Hassan, President of BGMEA and IAF Board Member from Turkey; Matthijs Crietee, Secretary General of IAF; Lisa Ramershoven and Marc Beckman of GIZ Fabric; Marsha Dickson, President and Co-Founder, and Lindsay Wright, Senior Manager of Communications at Better Buying Institute.

Matthijs Crietee also participated in a panel hosted simultaneously by The Industry We Want (TIWW) and by another STTI participant, VITAS in Vietnam, who participated remotely, from Hanoi. It was moderated by Alexander Kohnstamm, the Executive Director of the Fair Wear Foundation. Other participants in the Paris panel were Anosha Wahidi, Head of Division of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development and Joy Roeterdink, Head of Corporate Sustainability of Suit Supply. The panel participants agreed that although due diligence legislation potentially holds advantages for manufacturers, including better enforcement of improved purchasing practices, the road leading there is full of pitfalls. Matthijs Crietee pointed out that ironically, the way due diligence is implemented in a supply chain can lead to bad purchasing practices in itself and said that Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence is inherently a risk sharing exercise and not a risk transfer exercise.”

The days when brands could blame a supplier whenever something goes wrong were coming to an end

Dr. Liang Xiaohui participated in a panel on looking at how brands and suppliers could best collaborate on sharing the costs and responsibilities of due diligence more fairly, which also included Michael Bride of PVH, Anant Ahuja of Shahi Exports, and Sarah Dadush of the Responsible Contracting Project at Rutgers Law School. Dr. Liang talked about STTI’s origins within the STAR Network, IAF and the Covid-Pandemic, and the coming together of manufacturer associations from different sourcing countries to create a collaborative solution. Sarah Dadush highlighted contracts that acknowledge the impact of purchasing practices on human rights outcomes, and commit buyers to supporting their suppliers’ own HRDD performance. And Michael Bride called on brands to accept that the days when they could point to and blame a supplier whenever something goes wrong were coming to an end, and for the whole industry to adjust its mindset to the increasing regulation heading its way.

In the statement made by the IAF, the following were included: “As always, as much can be learned from who was not present at the Forum, as from who was. Several senior sustainability executives from a small number of forward-thinking brands were there, but their colleagues from other departments, or from C-suite and senior leadership, were conspicuously missing. Also, given the importance of the topic for them, more manufacturers should have been present. Improving purchasing practices requires work that stretches across companies and across supply chains and it is a challenge for all ‘Paris regulars’ to see this reflected in the 2024 Forum’s attendance.”

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15Mar2023

Cone Denim increases its transparency with Oritain

Cone Denim, the world’s first denim mill to use a special method to truly verify the origin of its fabric, extends its partnership of around four-year with Oritain for traceability. Cone Denim and Oritain use cutting-edge forensic science to detect naturally occurring trace elements and isotopes that are intrinsic properties of the fabric that can be verified back to its source. Through the extended partnership, Cone Denim continues to assure its customers that denim fabric produced by the company is authentic, true to source and in compliance with their cotton sourcing policies.

Cone Denim President Steve Maggard said that at Cone Denim, they have always operated on trust and they value providing their customers with traceability and documented transparency throughout the supply chain. Maggard disclosed: “Extending our partnership with Oritain allows us to continue our ongoing efforts to combine sustainable innovation with documentable, industry-leading traceability for cotton origin.”

Cone Denim increases its transparency with Oritain

Oritain fingerprint on Cone Denim products

The partnership solidifies the use of Oritain’s forensic traceability throughout the entire fashion industry. To achieve the level of traceability that the denim industry is demanding for its consumers, Oritain’s method applies forensic science to detect trace elements and isotopes in the denim itself. Soil composition and other environmental factors give the denim an inherent ‘fingerprint’ unique to the location in which the cotton is sourced, called an Oritain Origin Fingerprint. This Origin Fingerprint cannot be tampered with, replicated, or destroyed and enables Cone Denim to verify the origin of the cotton used in their denim. Denim can be tested at any stage on its journey from farm to shop floor, giving buyers assurance that the product has not been substituted along the way.

CEO of Oritain Grant Cochrane stated that continued industry pressures have caused companies to make a commitment to more sustainable practices and provide full transparency of their supply chains. Saying: “Cone Denim’s commitment to the Oritain program is leading the way in the denim industry and further demonstrates the world-leading mindset that Oritain endeavours to collaborate with,” Cochrane added the following: “Sustainability and innovation have long been part of the fabric at Cone Denim. Now it’s quite literally woven into their denim, too.”

Oritain has been working with a range of international companies since 2008, verifying products and increasing accountability throughout supply chains across the food, fashion, fibre, and pharmaceutical sectors. The forensic science company also partners with Cotton USA and multiple retail brands to independently verify their cotton and raw materials.

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14Mar2023

Textiles are more comfortable and sustainable with new Durak Tekstil lyocell threads

Durak Tekstil, one of the leading manufacturers of industrial sewing and embroidery threads, brings the comfort and naturalness of lyocell to the market. The new Lyosense embroidery thread and Lyostitch sewing thread made from 100% lyocell fibre respond to the increasing demands for sustainability and comfort in the apparel and fashion industry. The threads, of which Durak Tekstil successfully completed the R&D process and were successfully used for the first time by some of its leading customers, exceeded the expectations with their performance. Lyosense and Lyostitch threads appeal to manufacturers and brands that want to offer sustainability and comfort together in a variety of applications.

Having strong ties with embroidery manufacturers, Lyosense embroidery thread of Durak Tekstil is especially preferred for embroidery with matt appearance and soft surface. These embroidery applications can be used in various applications from underwear to swimwear, from fashion products to home textiles. Tailor-made Lyosense embroidery threads meet the market in a wide range of colors.

Lyostitch sewing thread meets the comfort and naturalness demands of the garment industry. It creates an ideal solution for soft stitching applications at the points in contact with the skin in fields such as t-shirts, underwear, children’s and baby wear. Lyostitch offers a long service life with the necessary tensile strength and seam flexibility in sewing applications.

Lyosense and Lyostitch threads have superior durability and tensile strength, as well as naturalness, softness, breathability and comfort from lyocell roots. These threads have an average tensile strength of 1600 CN at 40 gauge and 1200 CN at 60 gauge, offering the strength and elongation values that embroidery and sewing manufacturers are looking for, with a 7-9% elongation at break. These values are in the same proportions as for cotton threads and are only a few of the technical advantages.

Textiles are more comfortable and sustainable with new Durak Tekstil lyocell threads

Durak Tekstil Lyosense and Lyostitch threads will be the choice of leading fashion brands

Saying: “A thread is not just a thread. It takes place as a knot, a stitch at the very beginning of sustainable, functional and artistic works. For this reason, as Durak Tekstil, we have been developing our portfolio in a versatile way” Durak Tekstil Board Member and Marketing Director Yiğit Durak stated that they give a strong message to the industry and stakeholders with the new lyocell threads.

Emphasising that Lyosense and Lyostitch lyocell threads are the most sustainable products in their product portfolio with Duracotton Bio organic cotton thread, Durak pointed out that these are even more sustainable products compared to cotton in terms of production process. Durak noted that these threads will be preferred by brands and manufacturers that focus on end-to-end sustainability, and continued his words as follows; “Our Lyosense and Lyostitch threads will further increase the sustainability ratio, which is very important for leading fashion and apparel brands. Our new lyocell threads, of which R&D process has been completed and started to be used by some of our partners in the industry, will turn into a remarkable product in the market in a short time. We will offer our threads in the desired color options with our rich dyeing capacity and will also provide the necessary certificates to the producers. These certificates are a source of trust for sustainability-oriented brands. The eco-friendly and comfortable/soft structure of Lyocell fibre will be felt even more in the field of apparel and fashion with our threads.”

Lyocell from nature eventually returns to nature

Regenerated cellulosic lyocell fibre is produced from wood pulp cellulose obtained from plants such as birch, oak and eucalyptus grown for industrial purposes. It does not require special irrigation and spraying during the cultivation process. It is accepted as a real alternative to cotton with its naturalness and sustainability features.

Lyocell, which has more absorbent properties than cotton, also has a soft structure comparable to silk. Thanks to the microscopic channels on its surface, lyocell fabrics absorb perspiration and then release it into the air, providing extra comfort in use, keeping it cooler than linen with its breathability. Fabrics made of lyocell fibre have high color fastness and manage to maintain their brightness and color for a long time even after repeated washing processes. In addition to these practical advantages, the production of lyocell fibres requires less time compared to other fibres. This time-saving production method has a smaller environmental footprint. Lyocell, providing significant gains in terms of carbon emissions thanks to the use of industrially grown trees, also has an eco-friendly process since the amine oxide used in production can be recycled. Thanks to a closed-loop extraction process, no contaminated water waste is generated after lyocell production. This fibre is considered more eco-friendly than numerous other natural fibres, such as cotton, due to the use of organic solvents in its production and the recovery of water. Lyocell products are fully soluble and fertilised in nature. In short, the product obtained from nature eventually returns nature again.

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10Mar2023

Groz-Beckert to exhibit its latest carding solutions at INDEX™

Groz-Beckert, the provider of industrial machine needles, precision parts and fine tools, as well as systems and services for the production and joining of textile fabrics, will be presenting the latest innovations from its product area Carding to visitors at INDEX in Geneva, Switzerland, on April, 18–21. INDEX, one of the leading international trade fairs for the nonwoven sector is expected to host over 660 exhibitors and around 13,000 visitors from more than 100 countries in an exhibition area of over 50,000 m2. The InLine card clothing series for the nonwoven industry will take centre stage at the Groz-Beckert exhibition booth 2541. While a new and patented manufacturing process made the development of the innovative metallic card clothing series possible, it offers customers improved process reliability and increased uptime of the card. At the same time, the new process enables environmentally friendly and resource-saving production.

In addition to a controlled and precise hardening of the teeth, the wires are characterized by a reduced rib height and a completely scale-free surface. An exhibit at the booth will demonstrate what distinguishes the new process from the conventional production method and will highlight the differences between the new Groz-Beckert InLine card clothing series and its predecessor generation.

Groz-Beckert to exhibit its latest carding solutions at INDEX™ — Groz-Beckert to exhibit its latest carding solutions at INDEX

Visitors will experience the Groz-Beckert technology with augmented reality

The first special geometry of the Groz-Beckert InLine card clothing series to be developed was the SiroLock plus worker and doffer wire. It impresses with a more effective fiber take-up, control and transfer. Augmented reality will allow visitors to experience the functionality and operating principle behind SiroLock plus at INDEX.

The company focuses on top quality and offers industrial machine needles, precision parts and fine tools, as well as systems and services for the manufacture and joining of textile surfaces. Groz-Beckert and solidian, are also breaking into the growth field of textile reinforcements for sustainable construction. In cooperation with TKM, a market-leading specialist for industrial knives, the company is also expanding its product portfolio with industrial cutting solutions that play a key role in many manufacturing industries.

Groz-Beckert employed around 9,500 people worldwide and generated a turnover of 814 million euros in 2022. The company is present with agencies, production and distribution subsidiaries in more than 150 countries around the world.

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